The following pictures are of a 316 stainless steel
rudder I made for a 28' lobsterboat.

Rudder_01 = Bronze heel bearing and bottom stub shaft test fitted into the skeg
Rudder_02 = Failed attempt to cut stainless with oxy-acetylene torch.
Rudder_03 = My allignment fixture consisting of a piece of unistrut and wood blocks clamped to the table
Rudder_04 = Assembly tacked together
Rudder_05 = Root pass
Rudder_06 = Cover pass (a little messy)
Rudder_07 = Completed rudder installed in boat

Here is my post from RCM:
I just wanted to post a follow-up to my “working with stainless” thread and the great advice I got from RCM. 

I am making a rudder for a 28’ lobsterboat from 316 stainless steel plate and rod.

Per advice from RCM, I ended up slotting the plate and welding in the round stock.
I beveled the plate where it was to be welded, and welded with multiple passes to get full penetration.

The “cover pass” welds are not as uniform/pretty as I would like, but I am confident in their strength.  
I welded up a sample piece with only a root pass, and gave it the Big Hammer Test. (It passed).

The plate was roughed to shape by the supplier.  I cut to my final shape with cut-off disks in a 4 ½” 
angle grinder.  I burned up a number of disks.  The ones that seemed to last the longest were labeled 
“SB Supercut” purchased from McMaster Carr.  The edges of the plate were cleaned up with a 6x48 belt sander.
When cutting the slots, I cut the long edges with the cut-off disks and had planned to use an acetylene 
torch to make the short cuts at the tops of the slots.   Note to self and anyone else:  You can’t cut stainless
with oxy-acetylene.  I had a friend make the cuts with a plasma cutter.
When cutting the round stock, I managed to erase every single tooth off a horizontal bandsaw blade
from using too fast a speed.  Overall, I find this stuff is difficult to work with.

All in all it worked out well, I believe it is as strong as it can be, and I am pleased with the result.

Thanks for your help,
Andy