FILENAMES:

v-block.gif

DESCRIPTION:

This is a drawing of a way to make v-blocks from flat plate. Thanks to 
AL <alicecurtis@worldnet.att.net>. AL provided the following description:

>I made a set of v-blocks in this style because the company I was working for had
>a huge number of torched out squares that were just begging to be something
>useful. they are easy to make, simple and save your precisionblocks from being
>beat to pieces.
>
>In drawing v-block you will see there are no dimensions given just a centerline,
>you can make these blocks any size you need, dependant on the size and thickness
>of the material that is available.
>
>The slot should be milled to .002 smaller than the plate thickness this makes
>slipping the plates together impossible. but with a BIG hammer or a press they
>will interlock without distorting the plates,and will not come apart.
>
>they can be used at this time but they do tend to spring down if clamps are used
>with an excessive amount of arm,to prevent this they can be welded as long as
>care is taken to prevent overheating they will not warp much.
>(your mileage may vary)
>
>These blocks are really nice on drill press's, grinding, welding or other places
>that your blocks are going to take a beating.
>(also good for that fellow that borrows yours )
>
>This style is just begging for modifications an example is shown in ITEM-1
>This is a way to use these blocks on a bridgeport type mill without them
>getting spuished down by clamps,the ears on the bottom fit into the slots
>on the table and not only give support to the vblock but locate
>the V parallel to the table and at a constant height. the dimensions for
>ITEM-1 are based on the center distance of the T-slots on a bridgeport which is
>2.5" and width which is .625  the plates I used were originally .5 X 4 X 4
>when I finished squaring the plates and flycutting the surface I had plates that
>were .485 X 3.8 X 3.8  This required that I offset the slot from the centerline
>to get the 2.5" center to center distance. so the slot is not centered at 1.9"
>as would be expected but instead is at 2.118  After the two plates have been
>milled they can be dressed to enhance their appearance.To do this we require a
>flat surface and some fine grit wet or dry sandpaper, a surface that works well
>is a granite tile (other types of stone are soft and will not give good service
>these can usually be obtained from a shop that specializes in flooring tile,
>these places usually have odd/obsolete pattern tiles that they are happy to
>sell for a couple bucks, you want a 12 or 24 inch square tile.
>
>(I have seen surface plates used for this type of thing,this is a vile practice
>that should be resisted and discouraged.Anyone seen doing this should be whacked
>upside the head with a lead hammer, this will provide incentive not to do it
>again.)
>
>The surprising thing about these tiles is that they are ground to about .0005
>flatness.carpet tape (the stuff thats sticky on both sides) works well to tack
>the sandpaper to the tile.
>
>Draw the plates back and forth across the sandpaper being sure to keep the
>plates flat against the sandpaper about 320 grit will give you a fine finish
>removeing  cutting marks without putting taper into the blocks.
>
>Of course if you have a surface grinder this is not necessary.
>                          HAVE
>                          FUN