FILENAMES: saw1.jpg saw2.jpg saw3.jpg saw4.jpg saw5.jpg saw_stand.jpg DESCRIPTION: These are pictures of improvements to a "Harbor Freight" bandsaw undertaken by Jason North . Jason provided the following description: ========================================================================= These pics show my 4X6 Saw and stand. saw1.jpg- shows my coolant system in operation, cutting some 4" rigid conduit saw2.jpg- shows the trailing roller guide mod saw3.jpg- shows my close-up vise, the coolant nozzle and valve, and the trailing roller guide mod. saw4.jpg- shows an overview, with the HF coolant tank, and my saw stand. saw5.jpg- shows the saw in 'tilt mode', for cleaning. In saw1.jpg, you can see the pull-pins in the front saw mounting pedestals. The saw pivots on pins in the rear pedistals. Note in the design of the saw stand, allowance must be made for the CG shift when the saw is pivoted. This is why the stand seems to 'tilt' forwards. Note also, you can see the 1/2" SS collars I machined and pressed onto the outer bearing races of the outer rollers. This provides full blade support against the twist of going onto the pulleys, and will positively cure the blade cupping and distortion that the original rollers cause. The collars should be set so they just clear the toothed area. If you run the teeth on the collers, it will damage them. The rear guide roller mod is simply ordering a front roller assy, and mounting it to the rear roller mount. This moves the rear blade vertical support point 1 1/2" closer to the vise, making for greater blade stability and straighter cuts. You can not use the saw in vertical mode with this mod. Ordering Data from HF: 4x6 saw blade guide >model# 37151 (SKU) >part# 361265 >part: Blade Adjustable Seat- Left (4-52) The vise parts are made from 2X4" 1/4" angle stock, and allow holding short items for cutting. The adjusting bolt in back (J-bolt) turns through a 3/8 nut welded to the vise. The original moveable jaw is substituted for angle cuts of more than a few degrees. saw_stand.dxf - is a three view of the saw stand design. It is all welded 1 1/4" square tube.It is not dimensioned, as precise measurements are not required by anyone who can fab it up anyway. Basicaly, you should set the saw at a height that is comfortable for you to work with. Many saw stands I see are way too low, and I'm not that tall, anyway. My stand is 38" from the floor to the stop rod hole in the front of the saw base. Belly button height. You lift the front of the stand until the wheels touch the floor, then you can move it about. set it down where you want it, and it rocks onto the rubber feet, solidly holding the saw in place. You can adjust the feet to get the coolant to drain properly. JR North