FILENAMES: AtlasXslide1.jpg AtlasXslide2.jpg AtlasXslide3.jpg AtlasXslide4.jpg AtlasXslide5.jpg AtlasXslide6.jpg AtlasXslide7.jpg AtlasXslide8.jpg AtlasXslide9.jpg AtlasXslidedwg.gif AtlasXslide.zip DESCRIPTION: These are a diagram and pictures of a shop built cross slide table posted by Marty Escarcega . Marty provided the following description: ================================================================= 6" ATLAS #101 CROSS SLIDE TABLE The table is made from a section of Cold Rolled Steel flat, 3" x 1", slightly longer than 6". Lightly clean up surfaces on a belt sander, being careful to keep all faces flat and square; then clamp the piece in the milling machine vise flat on parallels, and true up both ends to size with light cuts, using a four-flute end mill for a good finish. Next, using a roughing end mill, cut the basic T-slot grooves. Change back to the four-flute end mill and make light finish cuts to size. Finally, using a T-slot cutter, finish the slots. Although it would be advantageous in some ways to make the T slots larger, I do not advocate this as it weakens the table too much, and nobody is going to use the little Atlas for huge work anyway, I hope! Next, turn the piece over in the milling vise, again making sure it is flat on the parallels, and change the cutter to either a roughing end mill or a shell mill. Cut the basic groove for the ways, changing to a four-flute to finish to size. Finish the tapers with a 60 degree cutter, again using light cuts, the last one back milled at about 10 thou. for the best finish you can get. Now locate, center drill, drill, and ream the hole for the Atlas cross slide feed nut; then lightly chamfer. Change the orientation of the piece in the milling vice to stand on edge to cut the gib adjusting screw holes, the parallels no longer being required, making sure you have the correct edge upwards. Then locate and center drill the four holes, drill #20 through, then tap 10-32 for Allen set screws. Remove the piece from the vise, clean off all burrs, break all sharp edges lightly with a fine file, and set aside. The gib is made from a piece of Brass flat, 3/8"x 1/8", slightly over 6" long. True up the ends to size, then, using an angle vise, set the piece on edge on a thin parallel. This is a slightly tricky operation as it has to be out of the vise jaws far enough to cut the counter bores for the set screws. Set the vise over to thirty degrees and cut the counterbores using a 5/32 end mill, plunging to a depth of 0.125". Change to a bigger end mill, and cut the first edge. Turn the piece over in the vise and cut the second edge, making sure you cut the piece as a parallelogram, not a trapezoid. Clean up any burrs, and it is ready to fit to the lathe. Remove the original cross slide, and remove the feed nut, screw and washer. Park the original and its gib safely for future use. Fit the new table to the lathe, sliding the gib in as you get it on the ways, then adjust the gib screws for a nice sliding fit without play. When you're satisfied with the feel of the movement, then, and only then install the feed nut and engage the thread. You should now have a working cross slide table. If you intend to fit an Aloris AXA or equivalent toolpost, you will need to make a bushing for the post, as the stock mounting bolt that comes with it is too big to use. Make a bushing for the post to fit whatever size T-nut and stud fits the table. Mine is a 5/16" diameter stud. It would be prudent to make this first before making the table! The post is installed in the last T slot closest to the cross slide feed handle, so that the post dovetail is clear of the table edge, to allow various holders to project below the surface of the table. Add as many holders as you can afford, and enjoy your newfound versatility! I highly recommend the Aloris knurling holder which places no stress on the lathe spindle in use, the self centering wheels being screw adjusted top and bottom on the workpiece. Also the chuck holder, which permits power drilling and reaming, a major benefit in my opinion. KEY TO PHOTOGRAPHS Xslide01: AXA post on lathe with negative rake carbide insert holder for brass cutting. Xslide02: Same setup, working side view. Xslide03: Same setup, another view. Xslide04: View from tailstock, showing fine feed handwheel added to lead screw. Xslide05: One of my favorite Aloris holders. Xslide06: Slide, post, and Bison type 5C collet holder. Xslide07: Slide and post with parting tool holder, 5C collet holder. Xslide08: Top view of slide off the lathe, with associated parts. Xslide09: Bottom view of slide off lathe. If anyone takes exception to the cosmetic appearance of this particular lathe, it has been in almost daily use since purchased new in the early 1960's, and has paid for itself many times over, as well as the cost of all accessories invested in for it. It is still just as accurate as when I bought it, and I hope it will continue to give the same service for many years yet to come. To anyone considering this size and type of machine as a toy, think again, within its capacity it is capable of producing any work your skill is up to tackling. I highly recommend the machine to all and sundry! I hope next to fit it with the George Yadon quick change gearbox, which will make it just about perfect.