FILENAMES: RaxleA.JPG RaxleB.JPG RaxleC.JPG RaxleD.JPG RaxleE.JPG RaxleF.JPG RaxleG.JPG RaxleH.JPG RaxleI.JPG RaxleJ.JPG RaxleK.JPG DESCRIPTION: These are pictures showing the process of repairing the rear axles on a garden tractor. Posted by Matt Maguire . Matt provided the following description: ----------------------------------------------------------------------- Files contained, 12 including this file; Raxle.txt - this text file RaxleA.JPG - The left side disk brake had been removed to allow clearance for a new hydraulic motor that was a bit longer than the original. (SWELL!) RaxleB.JPG - The mounting tube for the disk brake is machined back 1/4" to allow for a new disk. RaxleC.JPG - A blank for a new disk is flamecut and bored to fit the mounting tube. RaxleD.JPG - The new left side disk shown welded and machined to size. Also the right axle is shown with the disk and mounting tube removed. RaxleE.JPG - With the disk moved 1/4" the brake mount had to be cut and re-welded with the same 1/4" offset. RaxleF.JPG - This is another view of the left side disk and brake, showing the minimal clearance allowed. RaxleG.JPG - The right axle had been replaced by a local machine shop. The splines were fine but the axle had been made from stressproof (.005" undersize) and the welding was done with the disk brake tube in place, leaving arc marks and weld berries where the oil seal is supposed to be. So the disk and tube are cut off to allow for cleaning up and re- welding the axle to the flange. (GETALOOK at that weld WILLYA? WOW!) RaxleH.JPG - With the axle re-welded, the axle is built up with a cobalt base material at the areas where the axle will ride within bushings and re-machined to original size of 1.0000". (SEE NOTES) RaxleI.JPG - This is the right axle after brazing and machining, ready to have the disk and tube welded back on. RaxleJ.JPG - The axle tubes are shown with new oilite bushings pressed in. (SEE NOTES) RaxleK.JPG - This view shows the right axle disk and tube re- welded to the axle and the seals pressed into the axle housings, ready to go back into the tractor. (SEE NOTES) *NOTES* I bought my dad a vintage CASE #195 garden tractor in 1999 for fathers day to replace his Sears tractor. By the fall of 99' we had rebuilt the engine and discovered that there was a lot left to do, so I hauled the tractor back to my shop where I could continue this journey and hopefully get it in shape for fathers day 2000! The material used to build up the axle at the bearing areas is one of the "Stellite" (cobalt based) materials in powder form for brazing. When applied it is 45hRC and will work harden well into the 50s' RC. The left axle measured 1" basic, and appeared to be ground and made from low alloy material. The right axle had been replaced with what was represented to me to be stressproof (I looked up the folks that did it and had a little man to boy talk with them). Stressproof (a) doesn't weld well, as it is 1144 (resulpherized steel) and (b) will loose most of its' desirable properties if you do weld it. With little choice but to make a new axle or repair the old one, I chose to gamble and repair (time is getting short). The brazing also destroys the 100,000 psi min. yield properties gained by the severe working of this steel in manufacture, but I'm hoping that I'll end up in the 75,000 psi range by working quickly while brazing, (the largest worry is the joint between the axle and flange where I cut out the old weld and re-welded with 7018LoHy). The original axle housing bearings appeared to be a copper filled cast iron (these were used a lot in the 60s' to replace the plain iron bearings used up to that time for high pressure low speed application. After sizing the bearings for pressure per square inch, I determined that oilites (which are cheap and available in the proper sizes) would work almost as well. After all, the original bearings were only plus .010" after 35 years and the original axle showed less than .0005" wear at the bearing areas. The original (very heavy duty) double lip seals are no longer available at any price, but there was room to place 2 thinner double lip seals in the same bore (I hope it works). The last posting will be several odds and ends before I deliver the tractor to my dad. Respectfully submitted, Matt Maguire