FILENAMES: hardinge.dwf hardinge.gif DESCRIPTION: This is a CAD drawing of a Hardinge T-10 headstock assembly. Posted by Nick Alexander . Nick provided the following description: ================================================================= Disassembly of the Hardinge T-10 Headstock. Please note that the accompanying drawing is in DWF format. It requires a whip plugin for your browser to be able to be viewed. This is available from autodesk.com. It is probably easiest to disassemble the headstock with it on it's side on a work bench, removed from the bed. Remove the gearbox. Unbolt the lay shaft in the cabinet so as to release the 3 v-belts. Remove the backgear cover, cam shaft and back gears. (I haven't re-assembled this yet, so I haven't got it fresh in my mind as to what's involved, but I remember that it wasn't to difficult.) Draw the loose belts through the opening in the back of the headstock created by removing the backgear assembly. Next loosen off the 2 cam action bolts that secure the headstock to the bed, and slide the headstock off away from the tailstock. It's a bit unwieldy, as the convenient thing to hold it by is the spindle, which can rotate, swinging the casting. Remove the cam bolts holding the T-nuts in the headstock. These just slip out, but the trick is to be able to grip them to pull them. I used some modified circlips pliers. This will allow you to sit the headstock down flat on a rubber mat. Remove the locking nut (14) with a C spanner. Slide off the handwheel (13), and remove it's locating key from the keyway. I turned up a wooden blank the same diameter as the spindle, with a spigot that fits the small end of the spindle. This is used to drive the spindle out of the front of the headstock. This is rather a strenuous process, requiring a 4 pound hammer, as the spindle is snugly fitted into 5 bearings. As the spindle approaches the half way mark in it's removal, be ready to catch the clutch assembly (15), back gear (16), and the pulley (17) as they are released from the spindle. Remove the pulley first, by pushing the clutch back as far as it will go towards the back of the headstock. Once this is out, the clutch assembly can be slipped over the selector and removed. There is an internal key in this assembly which can slip out, so make sure this is in a safe place. Remove the 2 spacers (7) and (9), with the larger one being to the front. Remove the 3 cap screws that secure the securing flange (2) to the headstock. Use circlip pliers to remove the circlips securing the outer cork seals front and back. Next remove the inner clips and seals. The bearings can now be pressed out. It is important to note the orientation of all bearings, as they are angular contact. Re-assembly is largely a reverse of the above procedure. I turned a smaller spigot onto the wooden blank to fit the 5C socket on the spindle to drive it back into the front bearings. I can't see any way of avoiding driving it in in this way, with the bearings in place, because of the need to fit the front oil seal with circlips front and back. The rear bearing can be pressed in with the locking nut, which is removed again to allow installation of the rear oil seal. Please note that the accompanying drawing is not to scale or in proportion. It also doesn't show the circlips.